Home > Rome guide for low cost tourists (beta version)
Accomodation. As in all the most touristic place,
sleeping in Rome can be quite expensive: here you can find
some tips for a cheap accomodation; some of them are not
easy to find elsewhere, even in the best guides (Lonely
Planet, Routard, etc.). Since I collected these informations
some years ago, it's possible not everything is correctly
updated. I'll be grateful to those who will write me
remarking possible mistakes.
Some of the cheapest and not
worse (at all!) accomodations are the religius houses and
guesthauses. I can suggest you the following, whose address
I got from a friend of mine, who spent there some days:
House of teology's students of Rome (Convitto della
facoltà di teologia valdese) and is near Piazza Cavour,
really a good place, close to the Vatican (of course!), the
historical centre of the city (Piazza Navona) and not far
from Trastevere, one of the most tipically roman
neigbourhoods. The person to contact is Signora (= Miss)
Caterina Erni. Address: Via Pietro Cossa 42
00193 Roma. Tel. +39 06 3611649; fax +39 06 3201040
Time to call: from monday to friday, from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.
You can find some other accomodation of this type at the
page
http://www.romeguide.it/relig_search/trovareligeng.php.
For those who prefer to sleep in a b&b: I know one quite
cheap (38 euro for the double room and 24 euro for the
single one) whose telephone number (mobile) is +39 347
3853820 (mobile). It's near Termini Railway Station
(Stazione Termini).
There is also the possibility to rent a flat near the
vatican: 80 euro for three people (each day, I think) and
the number is +39 338 4472168 (mobile).
Informations about hostels can be found at the page
http://www.hihostels.com/dba/Hostels-Rome-list.php?lang=E&city=IT|0315.
Eat & drink. You have to know that in the centre
of the city it's not easy at all to find some good
place to have a lunch, a dinner or even a snack during the
day. Everything seems to be expensive and not special, just
planned for tourists. Nevertheless, in a such big historical
centre you can find some nice place. For a fast and easy
lunch pause or for a snack in the afternoon, I recommend you
Lo Zozzone, in Via del Teatro Pace 32 (near Piazza Navona):
you will have a good choice of delicious sandwich; the bread
(actually we call it "pizza bianca") and the ingredients are
very good and you can choose exactly the coombination you
prefer; in summer, I suggest you to taste "pizza &
fichi", a speciality of Rome. Remember this place closes at
8 p.m. Very important: lots of people in Rome calls
Zozzone ('dirty guy') different places preparing huges
sandwichs (expecially late in the night); the one I
mentioned ist the originale one, whose real name is Lo
Zozzone.
If you like fish and you want a fast and easy meal, you
must taste the "filetti di baccalà"; you can find them in
several restaurants and pizzerias, but I strongly recommend
to eat them in a small place in the Via dei Librari 88 (a
small nice place where is located the S. Barbara church,
near Via dei Giubbonari); the
place has no name but
Filetti di baccalà, although
everyone in Rome know it as
er filettaro 'the filetti-di-baccalà-maker'. They are more expensive than in other
place, but also much bigger; one or two are enough to say
you had a dinner. Not a lunch, because the place is opened
only during the night.
A tradition we imported from Milan is the
one of the aperitivo (aka apericena). It means
you go in a bar, you pay a drink or a forfait (5-10
euro), then you can serve yourself from a buffet. Sometimes
it's really good and full of nice stuff, like a real dinner.
You find this combination in lots of places (there is also a
fish shop preparing aperitivi with fish and white wine, but
I never went there); a good one is
Momart
(Viale XXI Aprile 19), which is also restaurant and pizzeria
(see below).
In Rome there are lots of restaurants: a good guide will
give you the best overview: I'd like just to give you some
suggestions, the place I like to go.
In my opinion, the best traditional restaurants is Felice
(Via Mastro Giorgio 29); since it's very know and
appreciated, you must book a table (with some days in
advance, if possible) calling
+39 06
5746800. Some blocks further, you can find La fraschetta di
Mastro Giorgio (cheaper), from the same owners. At Felice
everything is excellent, but don't forget to finish the meal
wiht the delicious homemade tiramisù.
Generally speaking,
Testaccio is a good neighbourhood to dine, with lots of
pizzerias and restaurants. Nevertheless, be careful to chose
the right ones! As alternative to Felice, for a quick and
different meal, I suggest you (but if you come from France,
of course!) La Creperie (Via Galvani 11),
probably one of the best in Rome.
Another good
neighbourhood is the so-called Ghetto ('jewish
neighbourhood'), in the heart of the city; it's a beautiful
place full of typical kosher restaurants; you hav to
know that some of the best roman food were invented
preserved by jewish people; for example, the carciofi
(= artichokes) alla giudia (deep fried) or alla
romana. While season (spring). beside the Portico
d'Ottavia there is a small jewish bakery, whose speciality
is a delicious torta di ricotta.
If you have the
possibilities to go out of the city, you can visit the
Castelli Romani, small villages on the hills on the
south of Rome. There is lot's to see and to do there, and
you can also eat in a fraschetta, where I suggest you
to taste porchetta and coppiette. The best
place for porchetta is Ariccia; I suggest you to go to
Bianchi, a place you won't forget; if you wish
to dine in a real restaurant (more expensive, of course), go
to Grottaferrata at La Briciola di Adriana
(Via G. D'Annunzio 12), where you can taste the specialities
of Velletri (a town located in that area). You need to
book a table.
For fish, I give you
two addresses: in the heart of Rome, near Vatican City,
Benito & Gilberto (Via del Falco 19; not very
cheap); a cheaper alternative is Dar Zagaja ar buco,
at the seaside, in Capocotta (Ostia).
Pizza. It's an
important chapter. The original (and, in my opinion, the
best) pizza is the one from Neaples; it's soft, while the
roman style one if crispy. In Rome you'll never find a pizza
so good as in the best places of Neaples, but I can give you
some good addresses where you can almost reach that level.
The first and most important one is
Mangianapoli (two addresses), which is also very
cheap. I suggest you to book a table and to taste (as
appetizer) angioletti and diavoletti (you can
share a portion in two people), before enjoying the best
margherita in Rome. Other nice pizzerias (Neaples
style): Belle Epoque (Via Ajaccio 11);
Momart
(Viale XXI Aprile 19); don't forget to taste the
antipasti fritti and the desserts there!);
Renovatio (Piazza Risorgimento 46/a);
Fratelli La Bufala (several restaurants); Roman
style:
La
Montecarlo and
Baffetto, in the heart of Rome, or Il
Podere rosa (Via del Podere rosa 25), where I
suggest you to taste the focaccia vegetariana.
Although Rome is not
the best place in Italy for the pizza, it's the best one for
the pizza al taglio ('slice of pizza'); don't leave
the city without tasting a hot slice of pizza and a
supplì ('rice ball'). Just some addresses:
Angelo & Simonetta, on the Via Nomentana;
Il dolce forno (Piazza Mancini 10, near the Stadio
Olimpico); Pizzeria Italia (Corso Italia 103).
As dessert, expecially during the summer, you can enjoy a
good ice cream in many place but not everywhere; one of the
most famous and "historical" ice cream shops is
Giolitti,
near the Parliament and the Pantheon; it's not bad at all,
but my tips bring you somwhere else; in that area, for
example, there is a small ice cream shops called Fiocco d
Neve (Via del Pantheon, 51), where you can taste the best zabaione ice cream of
the city; according to the specialized guides, the best ice
cream shop in Rome is
Il
Gelato (Via dell'Aeronautica 105); it's not close to the
centre, but you can reach it easily by Metro B (end station:
Laurentina, then walk 1 minute). In the meanwhile, I can recommend you
S. Crispino (several shops, included one inside
the airport Leonardo Da Vinci, Fiumicino),
Al
Settimo Gelo (Via Vodice 21/A) and
Fata Morgana
(several shops), whose ice creams
are excellent, natural and first quality. If you want to
enjoy a good granita or cremolato, I suggest you two
addresses:
Mizzica, an excellent sicilian bar (actually
they have several bars) where you can enjoy also some other
delicious sicilian specialities, and Quinto
(Via di Tor Millina 15, near Piazza Navona): his ice creams
are just huge, but his cremolato di fragola is super.
The best tiramisù in Rome is the one of
Pompi
(traditional or with strawberries).
Nightlife. If you are searching for clubs, this is
probably not "your" website. I can give you only some
general informations. Testaccio is probably the best
neighbourhood to combine food, drinks and dance: you can
have a pizza or some other typical meal, then drink one of
the several beers at
L'oasi della birra (Piazza Testaccio 38) an then
walk to Via Monte Testaccio, which is full of small, nice
and quite cheap clubs.
To walk, eat and drink I suggest you Trastevere or
in the centre, Campo de' Fiori, full of bars where
you can buy a beer or a cocktail. If you don't need to stay
close to the centre, spend a night in S. Lorenzo (students
subburb) or in Pigneto, where you will really feel a
nice atmosphere. In S. Lorenzo you can also find lots
of small "alternative" clubs.
To have an overview on the week events in Rome, buy
Roma c'è or
La
Repubblica (on thursday, when you'll get also
the magazine Trovaroma).
What to visit. A good tourist guide can help you
better than I can; I just give you some tips about some
places not so well known as the "classical" Colosseo,
Spanish steps, etc.
Not everyone knows that in Rome there is a pyramid (Piramide
Cestia). An old one. You can reach and see it (from
outside; to visit the interior you have to reserve some
months in advance) by Metro B (stop: Piramde); behind the
pyramid, I suggest you to visit the
protestant cemetry (Cimitero Acattolico).
Not far from there, on the Via Ostiense, don't miss the
Centrale Montemartini, one of the most
innovative museums in Rome.
In Rome there are lots of hidden archeological sites;
they are sometimes inside buildings or under the ground, not
always opened; you have to search in internet for
archeological groups organizing guided visities. Search "roma
nascosta" or "roma segreta", "gruppo archeologico roma",
etc.
If you have good weather, don't miss a walk (or a bike
ride) on the Via Appia Antica, the ancient roman route;
another nice walk is in the Parco degli Acquedotti. By good
weather you can also go to the Castelli Romani.
... Every tip is kindly welcome (sometimes
tourists know a city better than its citizens...)!